Animal Welfare Professionals

Hi Amy - we primarily take rescue only dogs or dogs that are injured and need extensive care. While we sometimes are lucky, many of our rescue only dogs are either 5/5 fearful at the shelter or already have snarled, snapped, shown teeth, or have actual bite histories. And, rarely is that an issue for our fosters.

We start from the perspective that almost no dog ever bites unless it is protecting itself. Of course, what they are afraid of may be extensive and they may not be socialized early enough and so on, but if you start from the perspective that the dog was not deliberately aggressive, that can help people feel more comfortable.

Here are things we would consider for the foster:
-no children, quiet home, not a lot going on - this includes things such as no introductions to people or dogs to the dog for weeks - no one approaches the dog, pets the dogs, comes over and wants to meet the dog.

-truly understands and embodies patient, calm leadership. This means that they never push the dog to be touched, to have unwanted contact. The dog initiates contact and when they do, the person responds conservatively. Many people want to push affection - that can lead to more bites.

-agrees to keep the dog safe -  If anyone approaches on a walk, you say "The dog is in training, please don't approach." They have to follow all the guidelines. They need to know how to walk the dog safely - whether it be to turn around when another dog approaches, walk around in a wide berth, etc. They also need the right equipment. A soft muzzle may be helpful in some instances, such as for vet visits.

-agrees to whatever training method you espouse.  We focus on calm, consistent, patient leadership. We also believe that redirection may be essential to keep the person and the dog safe. If the dog starts to get amped up, they need to have some basic tools to ensure the safety of everyone. Know what you want them to do and teach them how to do it.

-they know what to look for when a dog is scared. The physical characteristics - tail position, ear position, mouth closed, lip licking, hackles up, growling, etc. Dogs don't just launch into biting. They give warning - if we are paying attention. This is where slow and patient is so important. If you're doing that, most of the time you can see what is coming

-has grit, for lack of a better word. Some people give up when the dog growls or pees in the wrong place. For a dog that is fearful, it can be hard work. They need to be people who will stick with it.

Hope this gives some food for thought. Hopefully others will answer, too, so you have more ideas on how to make it work for your situation.

Hi Amy - we primarily take rescue only dogs or dogs that are injured and need extensive care. While we sometimes are lucky, many of our rescue only dogs are either 5/5 fearful at the shelter or already have snarled, snapped, shown teeth, or have actual bite histories. And, rarely is that an issue for our fosters.

We start from the perspective that almost no dog ever bites unless it is protecting itself. Of course, what they are afraid of may be extensive and they may not be socialized early enough and so on, but if you start from the perspective that the dog was not deliberately aggressive, that can help people feel more comfortable.

Here are things we would consider for the foster:
-no children, quiet home, not a lot going on - this includes things such as no introductions to people or dogs to the dog for weeks - no one approaches the dog, pets the dogs, comes over and wants to meet the dog.

-truly understands and embodies patient, calm leadership. This means that they never push the dog to be touched, to have unwanted contact. The dog initiates contact and when they do, the person responds conservatively. Many people want to push affection - that can lead to more bites.

-agrees to keep the dog safe -  If anyone approaches on a walk, you say "The dog is in training, please don't approach." They have to follow all the guidelines. They need to know how to walk the dog safely - whether it be to turn around when another dog approaches, walk around in a wide berth, etc. They also need the right equipment. A soft muzzle may be helpful in some instances, such as for vet visits.

-agrees to whatever training method you espouse.  We focus on calm, consistent, patient leadership. We also believe that redirection may be essential to keep the person and the dog safe. If the dog starts to get amped up, they need to have some basic tools to ensure the safety of everyone. Know what you want them to do and teach them how to do it.

-they know what to look for when a dog is scared. The physical characteristics - tail position, ear position, mouth closed, lip licking, hackles up, growling, etc. Dogs don't just launch into biting. They give warning - if we are paying attention. This is where slow and patient is so important. If you're doing that, most of the time you can see what is coming

-has grit, for lack of a better word. Some people give up when the dog growls or pees in the wrong place. For a dog that is fearful, it can be hard work. They need to be people who will stick with it.

Hope this gives some food for thought. Hopefully others will answer, too, so you have more ideas on how to make it work for your situation.

Hi Amy - we primarily take rescue only dogs or dogs that are injured and need extensive care. While we sometimes are lucky, many of our rescue only dogs are either 5/5 fearful at the shelter or already have snarled, snapped, shown teeth, or have actual bite histories. And, rarely is that an issue for our fosters.

We start from the perspective that almost no dog ever bites unless it is protecting itself. Of course, what they are afraid of may be extensive and they may not be socialized early enough and so on, but if you start from the perspective that the dog was not deliberately aggressive, that can help people feel more comfortable.

Here are things we would consider for the foster:
-no children, quiet home, not a lot going on - this includes things such as no introductions to people or dogs to the dog for weeks - no one approaches the dog, pets the dogs, comes over and wants to meet the dog.

-truly understands and embodies patient, calm leadership. This means that they never push the dog to be touched, to have unwanted contact. The dog initiates contact and when they do, the person responds conservatively. Many people want to push affection - that can lead to more bites.

-agrees to keep the dog safe -  If anyone approaches on a walk, you say "The dog is in training, please don't approach." They have to follow all the guidelines. They need to know how to walk the dog safely - whether it be to turn around when another dog approaches, walk around in a wide berth, etc. They also need the right equipment. A soft muzzle may be helpful in some instances, such as for vet visits.

-agrees to whatever training method you espouse.  We focus on calm, consistent, patient leadership. We also believe that redirection may be essential to keep the person and the dog safe. If the dog starts to get amped up, they need to have some basic tools to ensure the safety of everyone. Know what you want them to do and teach them how to do it.

-they know what to look for when a dog is scared. The physical characteristics - tail position, ear position, mouth closed, lip licking, hackles up, growling, etc. Dogs don't just launch into biting. They give warning - if we are paying attention. This is where slow and patient is so important. If you're doing that, most of the time you can see what is coming

-has grit, for lack of a better word. Some people give up when the dog growls or pees in the wrong place. For a dog that is fearful, it can be hard work. They need to be people who will stick with it.

Hope this gives some food for thought. Hopefully others will answer, too, so you have more ideas on how to make it work for your situation.