Animal Welfare Professionals

We always start by reminding people that walks are not the only way to give a dog enrichment, exercise, and attention.  When they are reactive, it is best to start small and work slowly towards your end goal.  You have to be your foster pup's protector and advocate.  

So, I will typically start by giving my reactive fosters some decompression time.  It is more difficult, though not impossible, in an apartment.  Now that I have a house with a yard, we go out there and can play fetch or play with the chase it.  In an apartment, I paid particular attention to quiet times when I would be less likely to run into anyone else, worked on my communication, and had the dog wear a vest saying to stay back.  Or, I would take my dogs to more isolated areas to walk.  I would carry spray shield for unexpected situations/for safety and only use in an emergency.

Depending on where you live, your resources, and your friends and depending on what the dog is reactive to will determine how you start, but the main thing is that you start at a distance that is comfortable for your dog.  You do not let them get close enough to get over threshold or else it is too late.  So, maybe you can enlist a friend your dog does not know that can walk by at a safe distance or you just start in your driveway. 

When the dog takes not of the thing they would typically react to, you can say something like "look at that" or click and treat and then can even turn and walk them back a little, rewarding them with extra space. Slowly, over time, you can get closer, but you have to really pay attention to and respect your dog's needs.

This is not my rescue or document, but in searching for something that says what I am trying to say but better, I found this helpful PDF: Look-At-That_pdf.pdf

Is this the kind of advice you are asking for?  Is the dog reactive to people and dogs? 

Also, if it is within your resources and their is a Reactive Dog Course at a training center nearby that can be a great way to practice in a far more controlled environment.  I do not see trainers that use vibration collars, e-collars, pinch collars, or choke chains.  The reactive dog courses I have done involve freedom harnesses, snoot loops, treats, verbal cues, etc.  They usually start indoors and after graduating indoor there may be an advanced outdoor class.  These were hugely helpful.  I, personally, am no good with snoot loops, so I do not use them and prefer the freedom harness.  Needless to say, teaching loose leash walking at home first can be a huge help.