Animal Welfare Professionals

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hi Christine,

One thought that came to mind reading your post is that the conflict may not actually be about handling, leashes, or even the staff members themselves - it may primarily be about the emotional meaning of returning to the kennel - how the dog feels about going back to the kennel.

For many shelter dogs:

• going outside = freedom, stimulation, agency
• returning to kennel = loss of all of that

Once dogs begin anticipating the return, some will try to prevent the outcome by:

• leash grabbing
• mouthiness
• avoiding the doorway
• refusing food
• becoming conflicted around handling

One important nuance is that dogs who are anxious or conflicted often cannot emotionally engage with food. Dogs that are stressed refuse food altogether. In those moments, treats are not "low value" - the dog may simply not feel safe or regulated enough to enjoy them.

I'm a certified trainer and have also volunteered in shelter environments for many years. A lot of my approach focuses on how immediate behaviors are influenced by:

• function
• environment
• emotional state

In shelter settings especially, behaviors that look like "stubbornness" or "noncompliance" are often conflict-driven behaviors connected to stress, predictability, and loss of control.

One approach we've been discussing is creating a predictable and positive return-to-kennel routine using a "Find It → special enrichment" pattern.

"Find It" is a cue that means:
"Search for food on the ground."

Instead of taking food directly from a person's hand, the dog engages in sniffing and foraging behavior, which can be naturally calming and less socially pressured for stressed dogs.

The important part is that "Find It" is first taught INSIDE the kennel and paired with something the dog truly values:

• Kong
• LickiMat
• scatter feeding
• snuffle-style searching
• chew item
• frozen enrichment
• or another calming activity the dog enjoys

The sequence becomes:
Find It → scatter treats → special enrichment appears

Over time, the dog begins associating the kennel with a predictable positive outcome instead of only the end of freedom.

A few thoughts on implementation:

• Start by teaching the pattern entirely inside the kennel
• Once the dog anticipates the enrichment after "Find It," practice very short reps only 50–100 ft away from kennel before attempting full yard returns
• Use "Find It" as an anticipatory cue for the return routine, not as a lure or distraction outside
• Keep the cue special and consistent - ideally only used in this context initially

The goal is not to "convince" the dog to go back, but to change the dog's emotional expectation of what happens when they do.

If this creates positive outcomes, it can lead to reduction of conflicts on both sides:

• less fighting from dogs
• less physical pressure from handlers
• cleaner and safer transitions overall

At its core, the approach tries to:

1. remove conflict
2. build internal motivation through foraging
3. restore agency so the dog participates instead of feeling pushed

Curious what others think and whether anyone has tried something similar in a shelter setting.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Love this! I like doing something like this with any dog going back to a kennel.

With some of the dogs at my shelter who have developed these behaviors, they may still not respond to the initial kennel training due already being in an aroused state while in the kennel. As you mentioned, the kennel is the issue, not the person, so getting them to focus on a snuffle mat or treat scatter while in their kennel can be difficult or even unsafe. For the particular tricky pups, I have done "find it" first outside of their kennel in a space where they are under threshold so they learn the pattern. Then, I've moved it to the kennel. 

However, I have not done this nearly enough to see if it works overall and not nearly to the extent of the training process you provided. I would be interested to see what other shelters do, too!

Of course, this is just our kennels which are not ideal particularly during busy times (like first morning potty breaks). I've been to shelters where starting in the kennel space isn't as stressful. 

Hi Christine,

One thought that came to mind reading your post is that the conflict may not actually be about handling, leashes, or even the staff members themselves - it may primarily be about the emotional meaning of returning to the kennel - how the dog feels about going back to the kennel.

For many shelter dogs:

• going outside = freedom, stimulation, agency
• returning to kennel = loss of all of that

Once dogs begin anticipating the return, some will try to prevent the outcome by:

• leash grabbing
• mouthiness
• avoiding the doorway
• refusing food
• becoming conflicted around handling

One important nuance is that dogs who are anxious or conflicted often cannot emotionally engage with food. Dogs that are stressed refuse food altogether. In those moments, treats are not "low value" - the dog may simply not feel safe or regulated enough to enjoy them.

I'm a certified trainer and have also volunteered in shelter environments for many years. A lot of my approach focuses on how immediate behaviors are influenced by:

• function
• environment
• emotional state

In shelter settings especially, behaviors that look like "stubbornness" or "noncompliance" are often conflict-driven behaviors connected to stress, predictability, and loss of control.

One approach we've been discussing is creating a predictable and positive return-to-kennel routine using a "Find It → special enrichment" pattern.

"Find It" is a cue that means:
"Search for food on the ground."

Instead of taking food directly from a person's hand, the dog engages in sniffing and foraging behavior, which can be naturally calming and less socially pressured for stressed dogs.

The important part is that "Find It" is first taught INSIDE the kennel and paired with something the dog truly values:

• Kong
• LickiMat
• scatter feeding
• snuffle-style searching
• chew item
• frozen enrichment
• or another calming activity the dog enjoys

The sequence becomes:
Find It → scatter treats → special enrichment appears

Over time, the dog begins associating the kennel with a predictable positive outcome instead of only the end of freedom.

A few thoughts on implementation:

• Start by teaching the pattern entirely inside the kennel
• Once the dog anticipates the enrichment after "Find It," practice very short reps only 50–100 ft away from kennel before attempting full yard returns
• Use "Find It" as an anticipatory cue for the return routine, not as a lure or distraction outside
• Keep the cue special and consistent - ideally only used in this context initially

The goal is not to "convince" the dog to go back, but to change the dog's emotional expectation of what happens when they do.

If this creates positive outcomes, it can lead to reduction of conflicts on both sides:

• less fighting from dogs
• less physical pressure from handlers
• cleaner and safer transitions overall

At its core, the approach tries to:

1. remove conflict
2. build internal motivation through foraging
3. restore agency so the dog participates instead of feeling pushed

Curious what others think and whether anyone has tried something similar in a shelter setting.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hi Christine,

One thought that came to mind reading your post is that the conflict may not actually be about handling, leashes, or even the staff members themselves - it may primarily be about the emotional meaning of returning to the kennel - how the dog feels about going back to the kennel.

For many shelter dogs:

• going outside = freedom, stimulation, agency
• returning to kennel = loss of all of that

Once dogs begin anticipating the return, some will try to prevent the outcome by:

• leash grabbing
• mouthiness
• avoiding the doorway
• refusing food
• becoming conflicted around handling

One important nuance is that dogs who are anxious or conflicted often cannot emotionally engage with food. Dogs that are stressed refuse food altogether. In those moments, treats are not "low value" - the dog may simply not feel safe or regulated enough to enjoy them.

I'm a certified trainer and have also volunteered in shelter environments for many years. A lot of my approach focuses on how immediate behaviors are influenced by:

• function
• environment
• emotional state

In shelter settings especially, behaviors that look like "stubbornness" or "noncompliance" are often conflict-driven behaviors connected to stress, predictability, and loss of control.

One approach we've been discussing is creating a predictable and positive return-to-kennel routine using a "Find It → special enrichment" pattern.

"Find It" is a cue that means:
"Search for food on the ground."

Instead of taking food directly from a person's hand, the dog engages in sniffing and foraging behavior, which can be naturally calming and less socially pressured for stressed dogs.

The important part is that "Find It" is first taught INSIDE the kennel and paired with something the dog truly values:

• Kong
• LickiMat
• scatter feeding
• snuffle-style searching
• chew item
• frozen enrichment
• or another calming activity the dog enjoys

The sequence becomes:
Find It → scatter treats → special enrichment appears

Over time, the dog begins associating the kennel with a predictable positive outcome instead of only the end of freedom.

A few thoughts on implementation:

• Start by teaching the pattern entirely inside the kennel
• Once the dog anticipates the enrichment after "Find It," practice very short reps only 50–100 ft away from kennel before attempting full yard returns
• Use "Find It" as an anticipatory cue for the return routine, not as a lure or distraction outside
• Keep the cue special and consistent - ideally only used in this context initially

The goal is not to "convince" the dog to go back, but to change the dog's emotional expectation of what happens when they do.

If this creates positive outcomes, it can lead to reduction of conflicts on both sides:

• less fighting from dogs
• less physical pressure from handlers
• cleaner and safer transitions overall

At its core, the approach tries to:

1. remove conflict
2. build internal motivation through foraging
3. restore agency so the dog participates instead of feeling pushed

Curious what others think and whether anyone has tried something similar in a shelter setting.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Thank you, Julielani, for sharing your flyers. Just yesterday, while volunteering at the local shelter, I had a dog that reluctantly approached its kennel. I was able to use the circle, reset, repeat method to get it to walk in willingly, but once in, it wanted out. The food I had was not to its liking once in the kennel. I shared your flyer with administrative staff and suggested having some of the treat tools on hand each time staff returns dogs to their kennels in that special ward. That would make it easier for the dog, the volunteers, and staff.

Hi Christine,

One thought that came to mind reading your post is that the conflict may not actually be about handling, leashes, or even the staff members themselves - it may primarily be about the emotional meaning of returning to the kennel - how the dog feels about going back to the kennel.

For many shelter dogs:

• going outside = freedom, stimulation, agency
• returning to kennel = loss of all of that

Once dogs begin anticipating the return, some will try to prevent the outcome by:

• leash grabbing
• mouthiness
• avoiding the doorway
• refusing food
• becoming conflicted around handling

One important nuance is that dogs who are anxious or conflicted often cannot emotionally engage with food. Dogs that are stressed refuse food altogether. In those moments, treats are not "low value" - the dog may simply not feel safe or regulated enough to enjoy them.

I'm a certified trainer and have also volunteered in shelter environments for many years. A lot of my approach focuses on how immediate behaviors are influenced by:

• function
• environment
• emotional state

In shelter settings especially, behaviors that look like "stubbornness" or "noncompliance" are often conflict-driven behaviors connected to stress, predictability, and loss of control.

One approach we've been discussing is creating a predictable and positive return-to-kennel routine using a "Find It → special enrichment" pattern.

"Find It" is a cue that means:
"Search for food on the ground."

Instead of taking food directly from a person's hand, the dog engages in sniffing and foraging behavior, which can be naturally calming and less socially pressured for stressed dogs.

The important part is that "Find It" is first taught INSIDE the kennel and paired with something the dog truly values:

• Kong
• LickiMat
• scatter feeding
• snuffle-style searching
• chew item
• frozen enrichment
• or another calming activity the dog enjoys

The sequence becomes:
Find It → scatter treats → special enrichment appears

Over time, the dog begins associating the kennel with a predictable positive outcome instead of only the end of freedom.

A few thoughts on implementation:

• Start by teaching the pattern entirely inside the kennel
• Once the dog anticipates the enrichment after "Find It," practice very short reps only 50–100 ft away from kennel before attempting full yard returns
• Use "Find It" as an anticipatory cue for the return routine, not as a lure or distraction outside
• Keep the cue special and consistent - ideally only used in this context initially

The goal is not to "convince" the dog to go back, but to change the dog's emotional expectation of what happens when they do.

If this creates positive outcomes, it can lead to reduction of conflicts on both sides:

• less fighting from dogs
• less physical pressure from handlers
• cleaner and safer transitions overall

At its core, the approach tries to:

1. remove conflict
2. build internal motivation through foraging
3. restore agency so the dog participates instead of feeling pushed

Curious what others think and whether anyone has tried something similar in a shelter setting.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hi Augusta, Thank you for trying the plan and for sharing the observation because I actually think it highlights something important about the emotional side of kennel return.

My impression is similar to yours: the food may have helped the dog enter the kennel, but the kennel itself may not yet have enough positive emotional value for the dog to want to remain there comfortably.

So I think you are identifying a real competing element: outside still emotionally outcompetes the kennel. This is important because the goal is not simply " get the dog into the kennel" but make it so the dog feels safe enough to want to stay there.

I'm also wondering if by "treat tools" you meant things like:

• Kongs
• LickiMats
• frozen enrichment
• chew items
• snuffle enrichment
• or longer-lasting food activities

because I actually think that may be one of the missing pieces here.

If starting completely at Level 1 is not realistic in a shelter setting, I wonder if part of the solution is creating more of a transition zone around the kennel return itself.

For example:

• return toward kennel
• briefly play "Find It" outside the kennel
• toss food inside the kennel
• allow the dog to move in and out calmly a few times
• then eventually leave the enrichment inside

This practice may soften the emotional contrast between outside freedom and kennel confinement.

Instead of: "outside ends → kennel begins",  the kennel area itself becomes part of the ongoing activity and routine.

The dog learns that going into the kennel does not always instantly mean the complete end of movement, engagement, or positive experiences.

The larger goal is still helping the kennel itself gain positive emotional value over time.  Otherwise handlers may always be competing against the outside environment.

Ideally we want the kennel to predict enrichment, comfort, calming activities, decompression, predictability rather than simply confinement. 

I also think your circle-reset-repeat observation fits very well behaviorally because it gave the dog more agency and reduced direct conflict during the approach.

Your observation indicated the dog may not yet emotionally value the kennel enough to remain there comfortably once the immediate food is gone.

That is a much bigger emotional process than simply entering the kennel, and probably requires repetition, predictability, environmental support, and gradual emotional transition over time.

Keep me posted. 

Thank you, Julielani, for sharing your flyers. Just yesterday, while volunteering at the local shelter, I had a dog that reluctantly approached its kennel. I was able to use the circle, reset, repeat method to get it to walk in willingly, but once in, it wanted out. The food I had was not to its liking once in the kennel. I shared your flyer with administrative staff and suggested having some of the treat tools on hand each time staff returns dogs to their kennels in that special ward. That would make it easier for the dog, the volunteers, and staff.

Hi Christine,

One thought that came to mind reading your post is that the conflict may not actually be about handling, leashes, or even the staff members themselves - it may primarily be about the emotional meaning of returning to the kennel - how the dog feels about going back to the kennel.

For many shelter dogs:

• going outside = freedom, stimulation, agency
• returning to kennel = loss of all of that

Once dogs begin anticipating the return, some will try to prevent the outcome by:

• leash grabbing
• mouthiness
• avoiding the doorway
• refusing food
• becoming conflicted around handling

One important nuance is that dogs who are anxious or conflicted often cannot emotionally engage with food. Dogs that are stressed refuse food altogether. In those moments, treats are not "low value" - the dog may simply not feel safe or regulated enough to enjoy them.

I'm a certified trainer and have also volunteered in shelter environments for many years. A lot of my approach focuses on how immediate behaviors are influenced by:

• function
• environment
• emotional state

In shelter settings especially, behaviors that look like "stubbornness" or "noncompliance" are often conflict-driven behaviors connected to stress, predictability, and loss of control.

One approach we've been discussing is creating a predictable and positive return-to-kennel routine using a "Find It → special enrichment" pattern.

"Find It" is a cue that means:
"Search for food on the ground."

Instead of taking food directly from a person's hand, the dog engages in sniffing and foraging behavior, which can be naturally calming and less socially pressured for stressed dogs.

The important part is that "Find It" is first taught INSIDE the kennel and paired with something the dog truly values:

• Kong
• LickiMat
• scatter feeding
• snuffle-style searching
• chew item
• frozen enrichment
• or another calming activity the dog enjoys

The sequence becomes:
Find It → scatter treats → special enrichment appears

Over time, the dog begins associating the kennel with a predictable positive outcome instead of only the end of freedom.

A few thoughts on implementation:

• Start by teaching the pattern entirely inside the kennel
• Once the dog anticipates the enrichment after "Find It," practice very short reps only 50–100 ft away from kennel before attempting full yard returns
• Use "Find It" as an anticipatory cue for the return routine, not as a lure or distraction outside
• Keep the cue special and consistent - ideally only used in this context initially

The goal is not to "convince" the dog to go back, but to change the dog's emotional expectation of what happens when they do.

If this creates positive outcomes, it can lead to reduction of conflicts on both sides:

• less fighting from dogs
• less physical pressure from handlers
• cleaner and safer transitions overall

At its core, the approach tries to:

1. remove conflict
2. build internal motivation through foraging
3. restore agency so the dog participates instead of feeling pushed

Curious what others think and whether anyone has tried something similar in a shelter setting.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

I am not a trainer but this is what works for us.     Our dogs go into outside runs in the morning and then are walked and brought inside late morning early afternoon depending on the weather.    We put their morning meal into the outside run so they go right out for us - most without even putting a lead on.    We always set up our kennels with their bed, treats on their bed. and I also buy cow hooves and they are filled with something every day.   During cold weather they also get a blanket on their bed.   Almost all of our dogs rush right into their kennel to get the yummy snacks.   We use long slip lead to walk them so it is a simple flip the lead off and shut the door.    This way they associate the kennel with positive reinforcement.   

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hi Christine, I want to share the infographics with you. I realize my previous recommendation was to start with the kennel but Caitlin on this thread indicated that for some dogs, the kennel can already be a challenge. So I modified the infographics so it reflects this challenge. I hope you find it useful. I love to hear if it helps. 

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank

I completely understand your struggle-returning a dog to the kennel or activity area can be very challenging, especially for anxious or fearful dogs. Here are some tips that might help:

Use high-value rewards (treats or favorite toys) to guide the dog, instead of grabbing or dragging.  
Break the training into smaller steps, practicing short, successful sessions.  
Make sure the dog is relaxed before training; gentle interaction or sniffing games work well.  
Ensure all staff use consistent handling methods.  
Track each session and adjust rewards or techniques accordingly.

Hello! I'm looking for options to help with dogs who have return to run/kennel resistance with handling difficulties (meaning the dog REALLY doesn't want to go into their run or kennel and is too aroused for treats to distract them. We have one dog here now who we are using a clip lead attached to a slip lead to take in and out to a yard or on walks. He had been grabbing the leash and not letting go of it (not shaking it or tugging even, but refusal to let go even with treats waved in front of him even high value treats or toys). So far that's working okay for him. We have another dog who will go in and out to the yard just fine for one staff member but for everyone else he is jumpy/mouthy, and will mouth clothing, hands and arms making some staff uncomfortable handling him. We also use a clip lead attached to a slip lead to get him in and out, but he's much more difficult when returning to his kennel. He's unsure about people having things in their hands, too. Treats don't entice him at all. Peanut butter has worked a couple of times but I think the novelty will soon wear off. I'd appreciate any suggestions or tips and tricks to help the pups and staff!

Thank you!

Christine Blank